WE ASK

How long have you been a fashion designer and how did you start out?

SURY

I have been designing for nearly 20 years! I studied at Chelsea School of Art and then at U.E.L. I studied Fashion Design with Marketing and finished with a BA (hons). I have always been interested in the marketing and ‘who the customer is’ ie. fashion in a context.

I started working for Arabella Pollen (who now writes books!) and enjoyed showing at London fashion week. I had part time jobs at Paul Smith and Harvey Nichols. I love really beautiful things and good design. So they were a good place to start.

I also lived and worked in Los Angeles for a brief period in the Eighties, which was fun. When I came back to the UK I worked for High street retailers and suppliers to the High street. I left Designers at Debenhams to come to Ascension.

WE ASK

What appealed to you most about Ascension?

SURY

Ascension appealed to me because it seems to me to be a vanguard for something new and exciting. The ethics intrigued me - it seems the only way forward for fashion to survive is to look after the people in it. I liked the idea of ‘change’ - we all need to make one small change to make a difference. I am very interested in working with artisans and celebrating their amazing skills.

I moved out of London some time ago and when you don’t live in the capital, the internet is ‘vital’ to you. ‘Google’ is my best friend! So joining an internet company was very relevant. I think it’s THE way for many of us to shop now.

WE ASK

Who inspires you most?

SURY

Li Edelkoort is very inspiring - she is a visionary who comments on global trends and is usually spot on.

I think Prada is a genius and I find visiting exhibitions of any kind very inspiring.

WE ASK

Which countries/cultures have inspired you?

SURY

Well my father is Iranian and my mum is from Ireland so I have to say I’m very drawn to all things mystical!

I love the romance of the Celts and visit both Ireland and Scotland as often as I can.

But I am also influenced by the sex appeal and beauty of ancient Arabian, Turkish, Indian, Morrocan and Persian art and music.

WE ASK

What has inspired the design of the Ascension collection?

SURY

I knew that I wanted to do something fresh and colourful. I was inspired by the artisans I met and wanted to use their skills, but using them in a modern way. It was important to me that the pieces stood up on their own and that they weren’t apologising for being ethical.Just gorgeous design led garments that were comfortable and happen to have an amazing story to them.

WE ASK

What have been the biggest hurdles you’ve faced in designing the Ascension Own-Label?

SURY

Where can I start…I think one of the biggest hurdles is speed to market. When you work in a conventional fashion business the speed to produce a collection and then to sell it can be done in a matter of weeks.

When you are the vanguard for something new, and you are working with artisans and small producers ; paying a fair wage etc things take time. By biggest hurdle was marrying my old skills with the new world I have joined and that you can’t rush these things.

WE ASK

Have you noticed big changes in the fashion industry in recent years?

SURY

The most interesting thing recently is that the S/S 09 catwalk collections were all quite individual and played to each designers’ strengths, not lots of different themes.

There seems to be a return to ‘individuality’ and an interest in escapism, with an interest in beautifully crafted pieces – that will last.

WE ASK

So, you’re working on the SS10 collection now. Can you let us know your take on the direction that fashion is taking?

SURY

Well my inspiration for Spring 2010 is a very clean and modern look. I am interested in futurism and simplifying things. There is trend towards precision and juxtaposing opposites hard against soft ; curves against angles. I feel that there will be a return to old fashioned values so perhaps there will be a resurgence of hard crafted skills.

WE ASK

What would you say to encourage someone to buy sustainable fashion garments?

SURY

You don’t have to be a radical to be ethical. I used to think sustainable was for environmentalists! Sustainable can mean fashionable. Just think the next time you buy something, do you really need it? If you paid a little more could you buy something that will last longer and that you’ll treasure? Or could you buy something ethically-produced that’ll make a difference? By buying vintage or trading in your old clothes you’re still being fashionable but you’re living in a more sustainable way too. Instead of filling landfills with clothing no one wants.

WE ASK

What advice would you give to a young budding designer?

SURY

Follow your passion, be true to yourself, and work hard!!